QAMISHLO - The pioneers of the Rojava Revolution are being kept alive everywhere from Deir ez-Zor to Hesekê and Qamishlo. Due to the embargo and attacks, even the construction of a house is progressing according to the course of events. DAESH is still a major threat, yet the revolution is advancing step by step with the communes.  

 

Qamişlo (Qamishlo), one of the largest cities in North and East Syria, is located right next to the Nisêbîn (Nusaybin) district of Mêrdîn (Mardin). To get here from the border crossing in Nisêbîn, you only need to walk 1 kilometre. In fact, in some places, you don't even have to walk that far. However, this area was also affected by the civil war that broke out in Syria in 2011. The border crossing was closed, relatives and acquaintances were separated, and the economies of both cities suffered greatly. 

 

A 1-KILOMETRE ROAD BECAME 3,600 KILOMETRES

 

If you want to go to a city only 1 kilometre away, you have to be prepared to travel at least thousands of kilometres. We also travelled a long way to attend the 5th Rojava International Film Festival, held between 13 and 20 November. Due to the existence of artificial borders, the 1-kilometre walk stretched to 3,600 kilometres. From Amed to Istanbul, then to Damascus, and then via Deir ez-Zor to Qamishlo...

 

THE PIONEERS OF THE REVOLUTION ARE EVERYWHERE 

 

After leaving Deir ez-Zor, our next stop was Heseke (Hesekê). Traces of the Rojava Revolution were evident along the way; photographs of SDF members who lost their lives fighting DAESH could be seen in all symbolic places. Photos of Kurdish leader Abdullah Öcalan, who inspired the revolution with his ideas, and of commanders who lost their lives at different times, are everywhere. At many points, we encounter slogans and banners reading "Freedom for Leader Apo" in both Arabic and Kurdish.   

 

Our journey, which began in the morning, continued until the evening. After passing through Heseke under a thick cloud of dust, we arrived in Qamishlo in the evening. At the entrance to the city, there is a sign that reads "Hûn bi xêr hatin (Welcome)," and directly opposite it is Nisêbîn.

 

EVEN BUILDING A HOUSE DEPENDS ON DEVELOPMENTS 

 

Qamishlo is a city where Kurds, Arabs, Armenians, Syriacs and Turkmen -albeit few in number- have lived together for many years. It therefore represents the model of the Autonomous Administration of North and East Syria. With the arrival of migrants during periods of conflict, its population of 200-300 thousand has nearly doubled.

 

 

Both the embargo and the uncertainty created by the war, as well as frequent air strikes, have negatively affected all areas of the city. Combined with the shortcomings of local authorities in providing services, problems such as roads, sanitation and water have increased. One city resident's comment, "Even building a house depends on developments in the region," sums up the situation in the area without needing to say much more. 

 

In another series of reports, we will cover how Qamishlo is managed, how new life is organised despite all the difficulties, and what the problems are. However, it is worth mentioning a few points about the general atmosphere in Qamishlo and the surrounding towns we had the opportunity to see during the festival. 

 

DAESH SLEEPING CELLS ARE A MAJOR THREAT 

 

The biggest threat to North and East Syria comes from ISIS's secret cells. Following the liberation of Raqqa, many ISIS members have scattered throughout the region. Although Qamishlo, Heseke, Derik and Kobani (Kobanê) are safer, DAESH continues to have a presence in the countryside around other cities. According to information obtained from Autonomous Administration officials, at least 10 members of the Syrian Democratic Forces (SDF) have been killed in attacks in the last month alone. 

 

DAESH members are carrying out various assassinations in the city centres of Raqqa and Deir ez-Zor, as well as in the barren lands. The most active areas for DAESH are the barren lands between the Heseke-Raqqa and Raqqa-Kobani roads. Therefore, travelling in these areas is risky.

 

THE MOST RISKY ROADS

 

The Heseke-Raqqa road is a road without any obstacles or intersections. DAESH members travel by motorbike on sections of the road close to Raqqa, carrying out assassinations. They also camouflage themselves on the roadside and carry out attacks on certain vehicles. 

 

A similar risk exists on the road between Raqqa and Kobani. It is reported that ISIL members in this area generally come from Serêkaniyê, which is controlled by paramilitary groups under Turkish control, and carry out similar attacks. 

 

The locations where attacks occur are not limited to these areas. There are numerous settlements in the rural areas of these regions. Checkpoints in these settlements are frequently attacked. Bomb attacks and assassinations can also occur in the city centre of Raqqa. These attacks increase in the evening hours. 

 

There is another risk on the Heseke-Raqqa road. In some areas where DAESH is not active, "bandits" are particularly active in the evening hours. Some groups intercept vehicles, seize them, or carry out robberies. 

 

With the SDF increasing its control over these roads, both the presence of DAESH and incidents such as roadblocks have decreased in recent years, but they have not completely disappeared.

 

THE MECHANISM OF CONSTRUCTION: COMMUNES 

 

In North and East Syria, governance is in the hands of the people. Communes and councils make decisions regarding local matters. Every city has both councils and communes. Municipalities also operate in coordination with councils and communes. Representatives from every community are involved in governance. Armenians and Assyrians also have separate councils. While equal representation in the administration (such as co-chair system) is an indispensable principle, women and young people also have their own organisations. 

 

Needs-based communes exist in neighbourhoods. Similarly, every institution active in the field of culture and arts operates as a commune. All income and expenditure is shared. Consumption is needs-based. For example, if you want to make a film, you can apply to the Rojava Film Commune and shoot your film collectively. Everyone, from the most "famous" director to the cameraman and actor, can be part of this collective work. The only requirement is that the script of the film to be shot must adhere to moral standards; it must not legitimise violence against women, praise capitalism, or exclude differences in society... 

 

The same applies to other communes. While the first word that comes out of people's mouths for a job to be done in systems dominated by capitalism is "money," the situation is quite the opposite in North and East Syria. Can every desired job be done at the desired level? Of course, due to circumstances, this is not very possible. However, it can be said that the utmost effort is made to get the job done. 

 

REMAINS OF THE OLD REGIME 

 

It can be said that in some areas, habits left over from the old regime still persist. The judiciary is one such area. It is possible to say that some laws from the Assad regime period are still being used as references in certain trials. Again, it is noted that Arabic still dominates the language of the judiciary, especially in cities with large Kurdish populations. There are several reasons for this situation: the goal of transforming the system rather than completely dismantling it in certain areas, the need to ensure a balanced transition in sensitive areas, and uncertainty regarding the status of the Autonomous Administration... 

 

CURRENT CURRENCY 

 

Currency printed during the Assad regime is still the country's main currency. The dollar is also used in some areas. The country's highest denomination is 5,000 TL, which is equivalent to half a dollar. Therefore, you have to carry stacks of cash with you. Especially if you are going shopping, you may have to carry a bag of cash with you. 

 

TRAFFIC SYSTEM: YOU HAVE TO CONSIDER EVERY POSSIBILITY 

 

There are no traffic lights in either Syria or the cities of North and East Syria. Even in the few places where there are, no one obeys them. Therefore, you have to consider every possibility. You may encounter a vehicle without lights or a motorcyclist ahead, you have to guess how many potholes there are on the road, or you have to consider the possibility that someone could step off the pavement and onto the road at any moment. At the same time, you have to check all your mirrors. If you are on a dark road, you must also consider the possibility of suddenly finding yourself under a car. 

 

However, despite all this, no one gets angry or insults anyone. When a situation arises that violates natural traffic rules, you may occasionally hear horns honking. Apart from that, it is possible to say that there is a traffic flow that everyone is satisfied with. 

 

THE 'MOST VALUABLE' PLACES

 

 

Great importance is attached to the "martyrs' cemeteries" where those who lost their lives during the Rojava Revolution are buried. They are among the cleanest, most orderly and most protected places in every city. The identity details and photographs of all the fighters who lost their lives are engraved on their gravestones. Each cemetery also symbolises a great sacrifice. It is possible to find fighters from almost all provinces and districts of the four parts of Kurdistan. In addition, there are graves of internationalist fighters from many countries around the world. 

 

Every visitor sees each fighter as if they were their own relative; they visit the graves of all the fighters one by one, shedding tears and kissing the gravestones. 

 

SUPPORT FOR OCALAN AND THE PROCESS IS STRONG 

 

In North and East Syria, both the administrators and the people are focused on the Peace and Democratic Society Process initiated in Turkey. So much so that this situation is discussed more than the negotiations between the Autonomous Administration and Damascus and is on the people's agenda. The reason is that the process and the future of North and East Syria are seen as interconnected. There is complete trust in Abdullah Öcalan and great support for the process. 

 

The view that the success of the process will positively affect North and East Syria as well as Turkey is widespread. They are not wrong. Since the process began, physical attacks on the region have decreased. People are more focused on building a better future. 

 

While threatening statements by Turkish officials provoke reactions, achieving lasting peace and a solution is everyone's demand. 

 

Tomorrow: We filmed Palmyra, destroyed by DAESH.

 

MA / Azad Altay